How To Tune Snare Fiber Drums (In-Depth Tutorial)

Ahh yes… the snare drum. The played drum across the kit. The snare drum is the centre piece, and it could easily specify a fiber barrels. From a heavy thud into a tight breeze; walnut, birch, bronze, steel, and anywhere in between; the total sound of the instrument is as diverse as ice cream tastes and may be just as sweet if tuned correctly.

This tutorial assumes you’re placing new drum heads onto your own trap. If you are using old heads and would like to follow along with the tutorial, simply evenly loosen the tension rods on either side of the drum and eliminate the sticks, hoops, and heads to begin afresh.

Do’s and Dont’s

Locate the head
Use good increments when trimming your own drum (1/4-1/2 turns)
Utilize John Good’s”pistol palms” procedure when tuning by ear (clarified in Fine Tuning)
Do not try by applying pressure with your palms to break!!!
Prevent muffling the drum (locate the mind that will Offer the sound you want )
Do not tap randomly (w/ hands, stick, drum key, etc.) when listening to overtones
First Things First

I prefer to start with the resonant or side of the drum. This lets us concentrate on the basic pitch of the drum , so that is where we will begin.

The very first measure to pruning a trap, or some other drum for that matter, is draining the bearing-edge of debris. Most commonly they’re dirt, grease, and wood chips from sticks.

Simply use a clean cotton fabric (micro-fiber if you are fancy) and operate across the edge of the drum. This gives a wonderful clean connection between drum head and bearing-edge.

Seating The Head

The most significant thing that you can do to make sure your snare songs up properly and will remain in song, is properly chairs the mind. Even though this might seem like a”no-brainer”, many drummers either miss this measure or merely assume that by putting the mind on the drum and rotating it a few times, they’ve seated the mind properly.

A correctly seated drum is one which is based on the drum casing, and at precisely the same distance in the ring of their head into the bearing edge across the diameter of the drum. This permits the hoop of the drum to use an excessive amount of downward pressure on either side of the drum head and also prevents over tensioning of one side.

It seems a lot harder as it is when put in to words. Simply place the drum on the casing, fasten the hoop beneath the drum head, and then, eye over the drum and then correct its place until the space between the hoops edge and the bearing edge are equivalent round the drum.

Typically, the resonant mind is very clear and this may be achieved visually. If your working with a coated head (like most trap batters), put your hands on the bottom of the hoop and also feel for the space between the hoops underside border along with the drum casing. The concept is exactly the same, only ensure that the gap between both is equivalent to opposite surfaces of the drum.